I almost replaced it, but I fixed it instead, saving hundreds.

October 26, 2014
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32dt1u Sourced from Toshiba

My TV started to drop video. When the issue would arise the TV behaved as if the coaxial cable was unplugged. The behavior was the same across all inputs. My first thought was to simply buy a new TV. That turned out to be an expensive option. I was ready to buy a unit from a local store, but they did not the unit I wanted in stock. So my thoughts moved onto to the idea of attempting to fix it.

A search online did not reveal a true fix it guide. But the search did lead to a few forum posts that lead me to believe I could fix the problem with a replacement main board. Since I could not find guide, I present to you a new guide to fix an older TV.



My TV is a Toshiba 32 inch LCD model 32DT1U. It was made around 2010. When I was shopping for a TV I looking for something that could handle multiple inputs. This fit the bill the with support for RCA, a couple of HDMI ports, and even a VGA port for the PC. But if none of those ports work it, is not much use. So with about an hour of total time, a Philips head screw driver and less than a 100 dollars, you too can fix your TV.

Diagnose: about 20 minutes.

Error Message

The first step is to diagnose the issue. In my case, I had a working display, and I could navigate the system menus. This indicated that the driver board, LCD panel, and the controller were all working. The lack of video input lead me to believe that the main board had the issue. The intermittent behavior lead me to believe that the issue is probably a crack in a solder joint. I had two choices, attempt to fix the main board, or replace it. I decided it was easier, faster, and cheaper to replace it.

Order the parts: about 20 minutes.

Main Board

A few searches for the TV model main board revealed the part number of the main board. I then used that part number to look on the popular commerce sites. In no time I had selected a reputable supplier, placed the order and waited for the package to show up at my door a few days later. A note of caution, make sure you do your homework. Cross reference the part number and model. For my TV their appeared to be a very similar model that had a main board that could have worked with my model. A little more research revealed that the board only have a 50/50 chance of working with my model and seemed to depend when the model produced. I did a little more searching to find a board guaranteed to work with my model. So before you click the buy button, doubt check that the part is what you really need.

Open the TV

Back panel removed

Once the part arrived a few days later, it was time to do the surgery: about 20 minutes.

Safety first, unplug the TV from the wall. Locate the screws around the back of the TV. This unit had 3 different types of screws, but thankfully none of them were hidden, under stickers, or hard to get to.

Check the Power Supply board

Remove the back panel from the TV. Check that there is no stray voltage in the system, discharge it if need be. I did not have any, so I could move on with out worry. The main board is easy to access. With 4 screws and few cable connectors, the old board is quick to remove.

Swap the board

Main board with cables disconnected

Take the new board out it’s packaging. Be careful when handling as to not zap the board with a static charge. Place the new board in the location, testing the button actuation and making sure everything is lined up. Screw the board in place and reconnect the cables.


Don't forget these screws.

Place the back panel onto the TV and screw it in place. The TV should now appear as it did before the start of this exercise.

Test it

TV rebuilt with old board

Plug the TV power cord into an outlet. Power the unit on. The TV should display that no video input detected. Cycle through the menus, make sure everything appears as it should. In my case I had to select English as the default language. Next plug a video source in, and select that video source as the active the input. You should see the video appear on the display. Plug any other video source you have and confirm that they work as well. If you do not have a successful display, unplug the TV power cord, remove the back panel and check your cable connections to the main board. If you still do not have a working TV, contact the board supplier.

Final thoughts

I was ready to spend $250 or more on a new TV. But deciding to fix this for less than $60 turned out to be a great money saver. I think I’ll take the money I had budgeted for a new TV and put it into a TV enhancement like a Roku, or Amazon Fire. I will still come out head. These steps worked for me in my situation, your mileage may vary.


Sous-Vide 1.1

October 12, 2014
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Small update.

Testing showed that the PID tuning was quite finicky. Even with the Auto tuning feature I had enabled, I was having issues with overshoot on the ramp up cycle. I also found that the PID control, by it’s very nature, caused the relay to chatter a lot when the crockpot temperature is near the set point temperature. I attempted to re-tune the PID several times but did not come up with a parameter set that I found to be acceptable.

A step back in controls:

I had previously, in a different project, used a more simple temperature control system. That system simply turned a heater on when the current temperature is low, off when the current temperature is high. It was a very simple method and worked well for a test chamber that was used in testing scenarios that required temperature stabilization over a 30 minute period prior to test execution. With a little bit of modification, the same concept has worked for the Sous-vide too. I added a little bit of logic to help prevent over-shoot. The relay no longer chatters, and the crockpot comes up to and maintains the setpoint temperature.

A step forward in progress:

Now that I have the temperature control segment of the program working well for this application, I can proceed to the next phase. With this new approach to the control, I have been able to remove the PID code. That freed up a large portion of the program memory that I plan on using for other features of the controller. Having free space in the program memory means I can add the profiles, delay timers, a selection of notification sounds, and logging. I’ve already started cooking with the unit, but I can’t wait to get the next set of features added to the program.

Posted in Arduino, Controls